Robin Garr's LOUISVILLE Restaurant Reviews

CLOSED: Babylon moved to the Clifton area during the autumn of 2003, but larger quarters and some dilution of its authentic Iraqi character in favor of a generic all-Arabian bill of fare didn't serve it well, and even weekend belly dancing couldn't halt its slide toward a quiet closing after a few months. We regret the loss of this individual Middle Eastern voice and hope management can find a way to bring us another Iraqi restaurant someday.

88	Babylon Iraqi Restaurant 6700 Strawberry Lane (502) 368-1207

With excellent if simple fare at rock-bottom prices and an attitude that says "Welcome, we're glad you're here!", Babylon Iraqi Restaurant offers a powerful reason for anyone who loves good food to head straight for the South End and a meal at this charming little place.

Babylon, as the menu points out, is one of the most famous cities in Iraq, a major Arabian republic, the land of the Tigris and the Euphrates, that's sadly been in the focus of world news in recent years. I propose Babylon Cafe as a much happier way than CNN to get to know our new Iraqi neighbors.

Most of the dishes on Babylon's short menu won't seem unusual to those of us who've already discovered the joys of pita and hummus and shish-kebab, but they're done unusually well here, with delicacy and focus and intriguing combinations of gentle spices and carefully grilled meats that make for an unforgettable meal. What's more, the friendly and welcoming proprietor-host (who speaks excellent English) goes out of his way to make diners feel at home, offering a mini-photo-album showing illustrations of all the menu items and eagerly answering questions about his food and his native land.

With only about a dozen regular entrees (although intriguing specials are often offered during evening meals), Babylon's menu (English on one side, Arabic on the other) is not just appetizing but affordable, with sandwiches ($2.99) and a dozen entrees from $4.99 (for rice in Iraqi soup) to $7.55 (for shawarma, a lamb-and-beef dish with rice or hummus). There's even a hot dog ($1.95) for the kids.

The large room (formerly State Sen. Dan Seum's Malano's Pizza) hasn't changed much under new ownership: It's paneled in knotty pine with vinyl "red-brick" flooring. The sunny front room houses the smoking section, with non-smokers relegated to the back room. There's also a tiny Arabian grocery at the side.

Iraqi tea (35 cents) is served in tiny glass cups. It's clear, aromatic with an exotic whiff of something like cardamom, and very sweet, so much so that there's undissolved sugar in the bottom of the cup. It's pleasant to sip with the Iraqi fare.

Iraqi kebab ($6.99) offers four generous sticks of grilled chopped mixed beef and lamb (the stick discreetly removed before serving). It's flavorful yet delicate, tender enough to cut with a fork, served on a bed of chopped lettuce and parsley and garnished with two delicious tomato halves, sizzling and black-flecked from a quick pass over the grill, tart, crisp yellow pickled cauliflower and sliced sweet onions.

Shawarma ($7.55) seems akin to gyros, lamb and beef roasted on a rotating vertical grill and shaved off in tender slices. It's also served on lettuce.

Dinners come with really delicious Iraqi bread, something like pitas on steroids: Baked on the premises, these white loaves are football-shaped and almost football-size, fresh from the oven with a fluffy interior and light but chewy golden crust. We tear off steaming chunks, load them up with meat and onions, and enjoy. I just can't quit eating this stuff.

A side dish of hummus (Arabian chickpea puree) is garlicky and smooth, topped with a pool of ripe, green olive oil and an olive, served with crisp toasted pita points for dipping.

Baklava ($2.99), an Iraqi variation on the basic Mediterranean dessert, is a good one, sweet and dense, thick layers of flaky phyllo surrounding walnut paste and dripping with honey. It's as good as I've ever tasted in Louisville.

One of the better lunches we've enjoyed in this town came to an affordable $17.42, and we left change from a $20 as tip for very friendly, competent and eager-to-please service. This place joins my small but growing list of local eateries so good that I'll go there happily when I'm not reviewing. We'll be back. $