Robin Garr's LOUISVILLE Restaurant Reviews

CLOSED. Happily, however, the same family is represented in the excellent Gumbo A Go-Go in Clifton.

77	Downtown New Orleans 1157 S. Second St. (502) 797-5644

Although it opened in the spring, this friendly little Old Louisville eatery is just now proclaiming its Grand Opening with a big sign out front, along with a new menu that I can't help noticing has increased in price a bit since April.

It's worth a visit, though, if you like the spicy goodness of Cajun fare. For the record, the place reminds me a bit more of New Iberia or Houma or another of the little towns along the watery arc of bayous between New Orleans and Alexandria than it does of The City That Care Forgot. But that's picky: Town or country, it's pretty good Louisiana-style eats.

The smallish storefront has been turned into a Cajun-style setting with bright yellow over lavender walls and lavender, yellow and green Mardi Gras banners that say "Louisiana" out loud, as do the colorful decorations including Tabasco posters, Mardi Gras masks and the "throws" that revelers toss out to spectators in the seasonal parades. The wood floor is bright and shiny with fresh polyurethane, and a small section up front with bright lavender and yellow tiles doubles as a dance floor.

There's room for just four or five sturdy black laminate tables and mismatched dinette chairs plus a few stools at a bar along one side. Whirling overhead fans gently stir the barely air-conditioned environment.

The menu includes about a dozen specialties, although you'll generally find that they're not all available on any given day. Prices, although increased from the $4.75 to $5.25 range on the early menu, are still quite reasonable: Main courses are either $5.75 (for red beans and rice, gumbo, chicken Creole, Cajun chili, chicken etouffee or the vegetarian dish of the day - often the delicious corn Maque Shou) or $7.25 (for jambalaya, shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffee, shrimp etouffee, Bourbon Street chicken or a combination plate featuring any two choices from the list.

Meals come with rice and "fresh bread," a chunk sliced diagonally from a grocery-store white French loaf. A short selection of desserts complete the bill of fare.

We've tried a variety of dishes on a couple of visits.

Corn Maque Chou (pronounced "mock shoe", $5.75 as a vegetarian special) is an Acadian tradition, roasted corn off the cob fried with peppery spice and the Cajun "holy trinity" of chopped celery, onions and green peppers, served over rice.

Jambalaya ($7.75) studded with smoky sausage and the "holy trinity," long-cooked with spicy long-grain rice.

Chicken etouffee ($5.75) was flavorful but a bit gloppy with a thick, very pale roux that might have been more enjoyable if cooked to a bit darker state.

A similar condition rendered sausage gumbo over rice ($5.75) a bit gelatinous. Given the authenticity of so much of the fare, it's a bit surprising that the cook seems overly cautious about letting a roux stay over high heat until the flour is cooked and it is properly dark brown.

But the ingredients and the flavors of all the dishes we have tried are fully up to snuff, and I can't say that I've ever felt dissatisfied after a meal here. And there's no complaint about the price; our most recent lunch for two came in a few cents under $15, plus a $3 tip for friendly and helpful if a bit disoriented service. $

(It's worth noting that Downtown New Orleans is currently open only for lunch and early dinner on work days. It's closed weekends and holidays.)

(July 2002)