Lily-gilding

We’ve all been there: You’re out for dinner, hungrily anticipating your entrée. You watch as the kitchen door swings open. Is that your food? What in the world is sticking out of it? Indeed, that is your entrée — the server stops at your table and sets down what someone surely thought of as a masterpiece of presentation. What is sticking out of your mashed potatoes is a giant sprig of rosemary. It’s practically 9 inches tall. Whoever finished off the dish — and it could be the person who cooked it, an expeditor, or even your server — is guilty of over-garnishing.
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Bardstown: epicenter of bourbon and good eats

If you’re sitting in a friendly diner working on a stack of blueberry pancakes, and you suddenly realize the bar at the back of the room offers selected tastings of small-batch and single-barrel bourbons with tasting sheets to record your impressions, you have almost certainly found your way to Bardstown, Ky. Continue reading Bardstown: epicenter of bourbon and good eats

Breakfast for lunch, and vice-versa, at Verbena Cafe

Breakfast appeals to me, and I’m more than willing to take on a platter of eggs, biscuits and hash browns at any time of day.  Breakfast for dinner? I’m there!

I like that about Verbena Cafe, a popular spot at Norton Commons: You can get breakfast any time they’re open, which makes an omelet, blueberry pancakes or even a raspberry Nutella crepe an entirely reasonable proposition even at 2 p.m.
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Clifton awash in ice cream

Within one remarkable week in October, two familiar old Clifton buildings on opposite sides of Frankfort Avenue have turned into ice cream shops. Last week, Homemade Ice Cream and Pie Kitchen opened its ninth branch, a café-style shop featuring wine and beer and, of course, ice cream, in the old Longshot Tavern (2232 Frankfort Ave., 409-6111, www.piekitchen.com).

A week earlier, Mayor Greg Fischer cut the ribbon to open Comfy Cow’s third branch on the site of the old Genny’s Diner and in the beautifully restored Queen Anne house next door. You know, the one the guy from Genny’s had declared unsalvageable. (It’s at 2221 Frankfort Ave., 409-4616, thecomfycow.com.)

Of course I had to try a tasting: $2.76 for a single scoop at the Pie Kitchen, $3.15 at the Cow. Frankly, they both smelled and tasted very good, with a fresh, clean chocolate scent and pure flavor. I gave the Comfy Cow the nod based on superior texture and flavor, but it was a close race. Pay your money and take your choice.

Heart & Soy gets to the heart of soy

Today let us consider the humble soybean. Those savvy Asians have been chowing down on them for 5,000 years, and making tofu for most of the last millennium. Soybeans became a major U.S. crop after World War II. We feed most of it to animals. Offer most people a bite of tofu, and they’ll go, “Eeuuww.”
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Against the Grain — brewery, BBQ and vegan!?

Hey, let’s go get a beer! And some pulled pork! And … some vegan wings made out of seitan? Beer and barbecue make a natural pair, and Against The Grain Brewery and Smokehouse does both admirably. But add some really good vegetarian dishes to this mix, and you’ve got something quite out of the ordinary. Continue reading Against the Grain — brewery, BBQ and vegan!?

To your every whim

I recently joined the catering division where I work, so catering has been very much on my mind lately. The Oxford English and American dictionaries define catering a few different ways: to provide food and drink at a social event or other gathering; to provide what is needed or required; to take into account or make allowances for; to try to satisfy (a need or demand).
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Seviche grows and keeps getting better

Seviche has been around for 10 years now, if we count Jicama, its predecessor in the same Highlands space, and Chef Anthony Lamas just keeps making it better and better. This sets a mighty high standard for an eatery I’ve been raving about since the start. I gave Jicama a 93-point rating in its first incarnation. Then when it reopened as Seviche in 2005, I kicked the number up to 95.
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