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Restaurant Reviews


Slugger Field
2 stars
70
Louisville Slugger Field
301 E. Main St.
(502) 212-2287 (BATS)

2003 UPDATE: Opening week of the 2003 baseball season finds a few changes in ballpark cuisine at Slugger Field, which was recently featured for its fare on cable television's Food Network. Hungry ball fans will find minor menu changes (the chopped-and-pressed "pork riblet" sandwich won't be missed, but those fiery hot chicken wings will be; welcome instead the fried fish sandwich, available only at one Club Level eatery).

No food or drink
Keeping terroristic sandwiches at bay, Slugger Field protects us from ... what, exactly?
But the most noticeable alteration, unfortunately, is across-the-board price increases for most food and drink. Slugger Field is still a bargain when compared to major league stadiums, but the cost of a family outing has gone up significantly this year. Now when the kids sing "
Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack," it's going to cost you $5.75 to indulge them, plus 3 bucks for cotton candy.

And don't even think about trying to beat the system by bringing your own food. Claiming "security," which is such a silly excuse that they ought to be embarrassed, stadium staff now inspect bags at the gates and turn away all presumably terroristic food and drink. It's a sad contrast with Indianapolis Victory Field, which welcomes family picnics.

The following review has been updated to reflect 2003 prices.


Everything tastes better at the ball park, and that includes cheap beer and bad hot dogs, not to mention peanuts and the singular CrackerJack.

And with Louisville's sparkling new field of dreams, Slugger Field, being one of the hottest tickets in town, the concept of dinner at the ball park takes on new meaning.

The home of the Louisville Bats, International League (AAA) farm team of the Cincinnati Reds, is a worthy addition indeed to the city's burgeoning East Main Street scene just upriver from downtown. The 13,500-seat venue opened April 12, 2000, built into the shell of the Civil War-era Brinly-Hardy building. With a hint of Chicago's Wrigley Field in its old brick and outfield bleachers, and a whiff of Boston's Fenway park in its intimate scale and big green wall in short left field, its friendly confines already feel like a Louisville landmark that's been there forever.

Ballpark Eateries
***/85 Wellinghurst's Steakhouse and ***/89 Browning's brewpub are located in the Slugger Field building, and both spots - managed by the same folks who own the estimable ***/87 Judge Roy Bean's - are noteworthy dining venues in their own right.

Take note, however, that both restaurants are outside the part of the stadium that requires tickets to get in, and at this point, at least until cooler heads prevail, the stadium's "security" rules technically forbid fans to leave the stadium and come back in. But I'm reliably informed that you can get your ticket stamped to permit a return after a mid-game break for a steak or a Browning's brew. Don't be shy about insisting on this ... and if you run into any problems with this, or have any other tales to tell that illustrate overly zealous "security" at Slugger Field, I would like to hear about it.
In addition to the Jack Daniel's Old No. 7 Club (an upscale bar reserved for the posh executive suites and upper-deck Club Level ticket holders), concession stands located all the way around the perimeter of the stadium and a squadron of concession carts offer a wide selection of good things to eat at the old ball game, ranging from standard ball park fare to a few intriguing specialties.

There are four large concession stands on the stadium's main floor, two on the first-base side, one on the third-base side and one in the outfield, with two more smaller stands upstairs on the club level. Free-standing concession carts are scattered all the way around the ball park, including the outfield bleachers and grassy left-field "berm" picnic area. The arrival of Browning's Brewpub has apparently banished the old-fashioned truck that used to dispenses beers from the Northern Kentucky Oldenberg microbrewery; a Budweiser van now stands at its former location along the right-field walkway.

I've eaten my way through most of the menu and can report that the selection is ample and filling, even if it doesn't make for exactly a balanced diet. It's also worth noting that quite a few ballpark specialties are offered at only one booth, so grazers will need to take a hike if they wish to sample everything. Here's my report on some of the ballpark standards:

FOOD

Concessions The best dinner with a view of the game may be found around past the berm in left-center field at the barbecue wagon, where the pork-chop sandwich is up to $5.50 from last year's $4.75, and a pulled pork barbecue sandwich is $4.25 (up from $3.75). Side items include baked potato ($3.75) and roast corn ($2.50). The pork chops are hearty in size but tend to be overcooked and dry. The pork barbecue is flavorful but long-cooked to a soft stringiness).

Hamburgers ($3.50 for a 1/3-pound burger, $4.50 for a half-pounder at the Club Level food dispensaries, up from $3 last year) and cheeseburgers ($4 and $5, respectively, up from $3.50) are of good quality, made the old-fashioned way from good ground beef patties cooked on a grill; cheeseburgers are topped with a generous square of mild but tasty American cheese. They're served on standard white buns, and vary in quality depending on whether you get one that was just grilled or one that's been sitting foil-wrapped in a steamer for a long time.

Fried bologna
Topping fried bologna with onions at the Grill Station
"Grill Station" carts offer deliciously greasy favorites including the oversize Slugger Dog, Italian sausage and bratwurst ($3.25, increased from last year's $2.75). Italian sausage is a large, mild pork sausage with a hint of the licorice flavor of fennel seeds, grilled golden-brown and installed in a standard hot-dog bun with a ration of delicious if somewhat greasy green peppers and onions. Definitely a two-Rolaids treat, it's almost a meal in itself. Some Grill Stations also offer an unusual item for ballpark fare: Thick-sliced bologna sausage, grilled with chopped onions (still $2.50).

One vendor just above the visitors' dugout roasts peanuts in the shell, using a remarkable brass-and-steel roaster that looks like a cross between a steam locomotive and a cappuccino machine. A very large bag (now $3) makes a good hand-warmer on a chilly evening and will keep you busy for nine innings, shelling and eating; sadly, the batch we sampled seemed a bit stale.

The fish sandwich ($3.75), new this year and so far spotted only in the reserved Club Level, isn't bad - somewhat resembling the McDonald's version, it's an unnaturally square breaded-and-fried fillet served on a large, surprisingly good-quality white sesame-seed bun. Another option, the grilled chicken breast sandwich is available at the Grand Slam Grill near first base for $4.25; this stand also offers a Philly Cheese steak with peppers ($4.50).

Hot dogs (unchanged at $1.75) on white buns are basic, straightforward, not overly exciting, but they get the job done. You can upgrade to an all-beef dog ($2.75) or a footlong ($3). French fries ($3, up a startling $1.50 from last year) vary from hot and sizzling to limp and greasy. Bear in mind, though, that everything tastes better at the ball game.

This also applies to the Papa John's pizza that's available whole ($16.25) or by the slice ($3.25) from a large tent and several smaller stands around the periphery. Papa's isn't my favorite pie; I'm not crazy about its bland sauce and cheese and bready consistency. But a generous slice with sausage or pepperoni does fill in the empty space when hunger pangs strike around the seventh-inning stretch.

Nachos are $3.25, or $4 for a deluxe order, and Edy's ice cream is $4 for a big waffle cone, $2 for a smaller cake cone. For those who insist on healthier fare, you'll find fresh fruit ($3.50), watermelon ($1.75) and yogurt ($1.50) at one stand just up the third-base line from home plate.

DRINK

Slugger Field Beer, too, tastes great at the ball park, and even a Budweiser or Bud Lite ($4 for a 24-ounce cup, $3.75 for 20 ounces and $3 for 16 ounces, each up a quarter from last year) seems to breathe a special tang in the happy ambience of Slugger Field. A few premium brands are offered by the bottle for $3.75 from "Diamond Drinks," a small bar near home plate that also offers JD Coolers for $3.50, a small selection of mixed drinks for $4.75 ($9.50 for doubles) and margaritas ($5). Soft drinks are $1.75 small, $2.25 medium and $3.50 large.

With ball-park admission ranging from $4 for the outfield bleachers or grass "lawn" to $8 for the upper deck, a couple can expect to spend anywhere from $20 to $40 or so for an evening at the game, depending on where you sit and how much you eat and drink.

Play ball! $$

(April 2000, most recently updated in April 2003)


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