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This archived review dates from 2007 or before. Use SEARCH above to find all recent reviews.
MOVED TO NEW LOCATION, 1416 Bardstown Road (next door to Day's Coffee). Ray Parrella's Italian plans to move to this location in January 2003.
** Sweet Surrender
2311 Frankfort Ave.
(502) 896-0519
Give this little place two stars for often spacey service, three stars for its adaptive reuse of a historic tollkeeper's house, and four bright, glowing asteroids for remarkably good desserts and pastries. Light lunches are also available.
Run by one of the city's top pastry chefs, Sweet Surrender is a frequent winner of Best of Louisville awards. I can stand for a long time, mouth watering, watching a dozen remarkable desserts rotating slowly in its tall, cylindrical display case on which some wit has posted the warning, "Don't lick the glass!" I find the desserts here variable, though. They're never worse than good and sometimes great, but I can't rate them consistently best.
German's chocolate cake, for example, was fine, a like-Mom-used-to-make rendition of this American classic, dark, rich and moist with a perfect coconut-pecan frosting. A chocolate caramel cake was perfection, too, managing to be both rich and airy, with delicious caramel frosting that stays on the right side of the line between dark, silken caramel and mere burnt sugar.
But cherry cheesecake seemed to have been left too long in the oven, and a pretty food-as-art fruit flan looked seductive, but the flavors failed to merge and the pastry was tough and leathery.
A slice of chocolate meringue pie brought us back on course, though, with its rich, pudding-like filling and light meringue in a good flaky crust. $
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