Four Pegs scores with smoky wings, ribs, and … jackfruit!?

By Robin Garr
LouisvilleHotBytes.com

It’s easy to run out of superlatives when we’re talking about the barbecue at Four Pegs in Germantown.

You’ve got those hefty, flavorful wings that come in a squadron of memorable flavors.
You’ve got those firm, flavorful, impeccably sauced baby back ribs.
And you’ve got that tender, mouth-watering pulled jackfruit

What?

Who knew that barbecued fruit could taste so good? In skilled hands, smoked and dry-rubbed and deliciously sauced, this stringy tropical fruit turns into a dead ringer for pulled pork.

Not only that, jackfruit is good for you. “Fruit as a meat substitute? Yep, when it’s jackfruit,” intone the gurus at The Cleveland Clinic. “So, is jackfruit good for you? Yes! Jackfruit benefits include being heart-healthy, fighting inflammation and promoting wound healing.”

More about this shortly, but first, let’s take a look at the mood and the menu. The mood is classic Germantown/Schnitzelburg blue-collar bar: A dark, crowded room with an impressive bar that looks as if it could be a century old or more. The rest of the room is packed with small black tables and wood-and-metal chairs, all of them likely to rock gently on the uneven floor.

Tables are set with cardboard containers holding extra forks and a stack of paper napkins ready to take on rib drippings. A two-page drinks menu lists cocktails and an extensive list of about 80 bourbons and a dozen ryes, all offered in 2-ounce pours or flights. QR codes afford quick smartphone access to a vast array of mostly American craft beers and the food menu, which apparently exists only online. Fine with me!

The menu is divided functionally among a half-dozen starters, eight varieties of wings with sundry toppings, a trio of mains and nine “sammies,” plus five macaroni and cheese bowls and a long list of sides. Just about everything is priced in the lower to middle teens, save for a massive $25 smokehouse sampler; baby back ribs are sold by the bone for a bargain $2.50 per. Bet you can’t eat just one!

A barbecue-centric brunch menu with 15 items in the same price range is available Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m.-2 p.m.

Everything we tried during our visit was uniformly very good, with not a single misstep or off note.

We started with one of the most offbeat yet seductively delicious salads I’ve ever enjoyed, the Pegs pickle and brussels sprout slaw ($4). We also summoned a whole pound of dry-rubbed, hickory-smoked chicken wings ($13.50) as a starter because why not.

Don’t yawn when you hear “slaw,” as this creation is different from any slaw you’ve tried before. Tangy pickles, sweet carrots, red cabbage, onion, and brussels sprouts are all cut into fine julienne and dressed with a tangy, creamy dressing to make a salad that’s crunchy, tart and sweet and earthy and so, so delicious.

Four Pegs is famous for its wings, and they come in a range of flavors. These basic dry-rubbed, hickory-smoked wings alone, tender, juicy, and deliciously smoky, deserve a trophy.

A pound of hickory-smoked wings makes a generous portion, five overize, meaty drummies and four similarly hefty flats. They had been coated in a spicy dry rub and smoked without any frills, just light smoke and juicy chicken within a crispy skin scorched black here and there. Tart, hot-sweet and smoky barbecue sauce came in a small tub alongside. It was tasty but not really needed to improve the excellent wings.

Slow-smoked baby back ribs ($2.50 per bone, pictured at the top of this page) were cooked to perfection, juicy and firm, not falling off the bone, which serious pitmasters will tell you is not an advantage but a signal of overcooking. They had been carved uniformly into thick slices, thickly coated with spicy dry rub and slathered with smoky sweet-hot chipotle-laced sauce. The meat was deeply smoked, edged with a thin layer of fat cloaked in that crisp spicy crust.

Who knew that barbecued jackfruit could taste so good? In skilled hands, smoked and dry-rubbed and deliciously sauced, this stringy tropical fruit turns into a dead ringer for pulled pork. Try it if you don't believe me. — Who knew that barbecued jackfruit could taste so good? In skilled hands, smoked and dry-rubbed and deliciously sauced, this stringy tropical fruit turns into a dead ringer for pulled pork. Try it if you don’t believe me.

We had to leave room for a barbecued jackfruit sandwich with pickled onion ($16), and I’m glad we did. Meaty chunks of the fruit, dry-rubbed, grill-seared and smoked and pulled like barbecued pork and slathered with sauce, could have passed for the real thing in texture and flavor. With a mix of house-pickled julienne red peppers and onions on top, overflowing a high-quality grilled bun, it was a memorable barbecue sandwich without a bit of meat in sight.

A couple of sides kept up the pace of excellence. White cheddar mac ($6) was a stovetop version, rich and tempting with a whiff of smoke over what looked like short cavatappi corkscrew pasta swimming in rich cheesy cream and topped with grated Parmesan.

A small bowl of local fresh collard greens ($6) was done just right, too. Long-simmered bits were studded with crusty shreds of smoked pork and came swimming in a hot and vinegary sauce.

A large and filling meal for two came to $47.17, and our server Sarah’s careful, friendly service earned a $15 tip.

Four Pegs Smokehouse & Bar
1053 Goss Ave.
634-1447
fourpegs.net
facebook.com/fourpegssmokehouse
instagram.com/four_pegs

Noise Level: This popular restaurant’s small space is often crowded, with a happy noise to match, so you may have to speak up when it gets loud. Still, sound readings stayed in the save zone at a 67.9dB average and 73.6dB peak during my test.

Accessibility: Two tall steps at the front door and a shorter step at a side door pose barriers to independent access by wheelchair users.