Category Archives: Commentary

Robin Garr’s musings about food and restaurant matters that don’t fit neatly into the “review” category.

$$ Modest ($30-$50), Commentary, Pacific Rim, St. Matthews, Westport Village, and environs

Something old, something new … sort of

Sage Indian
Sage Indian, which replaces the short-lived India Palace on Oechsli Avenue, has mostly kept its menu – featuring standard Northern Indian dishes – the same. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

This week let’s make quick visits to a couple of St. Matthews-area eateries where you can fill the tank for a reasonable price and go away satisfied.

Shady Lane Café, a homey storefront nook in Brownsboro Center, qualifies as “old,” sort of, by local restaurant standards: Owners and cooks William and Susi Smith have been doing business in this location going on two years now, and they’ve built a following the old-fashioned way, earning loyalty through a savvy combination of high-quality, down-home fare at a price that’s right, even when there’s not a recession going on. (See my report in the post below)

Sage Indian makes the grade as “new,” sort of: It arrived last month in the quarters vacated by the amiable but short-lived Royal India, which put up the shutters well under a year after it opened last winter.
Continue reading Something old, something new … sort of →

Commentary

LEO’s Recession-Proof Dining Guide

LEO Dining Guide

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

LouisvilleHotBytes.com is proud to be associated with LEO’s 2008 “Recession-proof Dining Guide,” a local-restaurant guide like no other, with a tongue-in-cheek hard-times spin.

In addition to a comprehensive directory of LEO Dining Guide Listings 2008, many of them based on our weekly LEO/LouisvilleHotBytes reviews, we think you’ll enjoy all of these articles by LEO and LouisvilleHotBytes contributors:

One-stop noshing: Stuff your face at buffets, by Mat Herron.

Beyond chicken-finger purgatory: Dining out with the kids in tough economic times, by Andrea Essenpreis.

Full of it: How I survived 14 days of eating exclusively in west Louisville, and why just surviving is not enough, by Phillip M. Bailey.

A friend indeed: Soup Kitchens report hunger is on the rise in Louisville, by Kevin Gibson.

Champagne dining on a beer budget: A guerrilla guide to eating well in recessionary times, by Robin Garr.

On the cutting board: As the economy sucks, so too the restaurant business, by Marsha Lynch.

$$ Modest ($30-$50), BY LOCATION, BY PRICE FOR TWO, BY TYPE, Coffee Shops & Desserts, Commentary, Downtown, NuLu and Butchertown

Lunch and antiques, not necessarily in that order

Goss Avenue Antique Mall
Lunch Lady Land: Exteriors of two Antique Malls each containing a new lunch spot – the new mall at Jackson and Broadway that has the resurrected Colonnade Café inside (below), and Olivia’s in the Goss Avenue Antique Mall. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

Ladies who lunch and go antique shopping (and men who do the same) have an unprecedented wealth of options these days, as a series of moves and changes has expanded the antique mall circuit from one popular eatery to three.

Let’s summarize: When the Louisville Antique Mall on Goss Avenue announced plans last year to move from its hulking 19th century brick industrial building to a different hulking 19th century brick industrial building on East Broadway, its critically acclaimed lunch spot, The Café, went off on its own to open a free-standing restaurant just east of downtown.

Then, not long after the Louisville Antique Mall made its move to East Broadway, a new luncheon establishment on its fifth floor revived the name of the old Colonnade cafeteria downtown. The move didn’t leave the old building on Goss vacant for long: Soon the Goss Avenue Antique Mall opened in slightly different but overlapping quarters. And sure enough, it has a lunch spot, too, dubbed Olivia’s Restaurant.
Continue reading Lunch and antiques, not necessarily in that order →

Commentary, New and noteworthy

Robot sommelier at Westport wine shop

Enomatic
Chris Zaborowski, proprietor at Westport Whiskey & Wine, demonstrates the new Enomatic. Photo by Robin Garr

A welcome new arrival for East End wine lovers is Westport Whiskey & Wine, run by wine-industry veteran Chris Zaborowski in the booming Westport Village shopping center.

Last week they unveiled a new high-tech, self-service wine dispenser: The Italian-made Enomatic dispenser automatically serves 1-ounce, 3-ounce or 5-ounce tastes from eight selected bottles of wine, keeping them in top shape by filling the empty space with inert argon gas.

Is it a wine shop or wine bar? It’s licensed as both, making it possible for consumers to enjoy a tasting, pick up a few bottles or both. Continue reading Robot sommelier at Westport wine shop →

Industry Standard

Kitchen lingo

Since switching careers five years ago from banking to cooking (which has begun to look like the luckiest accidental bullet-dodging ever), I’ve learned a new language: KitchenSpeak.

Recently I wrote about how controlled but chaotic a busy, successful commercial kitchen is. KitchenSpeak helps simplify our duties and interactions. It’s a weird, hopefully efficient, sometimes crude amalgam of verbal shorthand, hallelujah choruses, superstitions and private jokes. Every restaurant has its own particular patois and dialect – while sharing other KitchenSpeak terms and definitions with other restaurants everywhere.
Continue reading Kitchen lingo →

Commentary, News announcements

Welcome Ryder Cup fans! Now, let’s have dinner

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

Welcome to Louisville, Ryder Cup fans, and please excuse us if we accidentally misspell the name of your event. After all, in Louisville for the last 140 years or so, “Rider” has meant one of the little guys who captain those big horses around the track at Churchill Downs.

But we’re trying to get on board with the idea of folks who use long sticks to knock small white balls into tiny holes, and we truly do want to make you feel welcome.

Ryder Cup may attract more than 200,000 spectators (and another 1,500 reporters and photographers) to the Valhalla Golf Club during the five-day event (Sept. 16-21), and that puts it on par with Kentucky Derby season as a gathering likely to pack the town and make it mighty hard to get a table in some of our hottest eateries.

Valhalla, a gated, guarded greensward, is surrounded by endless suburbia, a scene that you may find a lot like home, whether you’re visiting from Atlanta, Ann Arbor or Greenwich. It would be all too easy for you to enjoy a pasteurized and homogenized dining experience, too, should you choose to take your meals at Olive Garden, Red Lobster or any of the many other corporate chains that dot that quadrant of our map.

But what a shame that would be! Louisville, a city where the locals allegedly dine out more often per capita than any other U.S. metropolis, is rich with fine, independently owned and operated eateries at a broad range of prices, styles and ethnic origins.

We hope you’ll make it a point to spend some time – and yes, some of your tourist dollars – getting to know our locals. We think you’ll see just why it is that we eat out so much.
Continue reading Welcome Ryder Cup fans! Now, let’s have dinner →

Industry Standard

Don’t get all your ingredients from one store

Foodie: Someone who cares about food, takes pride in the variety of his eating habits and enjoys getting quality ingredients for his home cooking. Did you know you can buy many of the products we use in the restaurant business without ever setting foot in a retail grocery store?
Continue reading Don’t get all your ingredients from one store →

Commentary

Voyage of foodie discovery at Worldfest

WorldFest
The “Food Village” at this year’s WorldFest. Photos by Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

Another WorldFest, Louisville’s annual celebration of ethnic diversity, is behind us and as usual, that means I’ve spent another weekend stuffing myself with delicious and exotic food from many nations.

That’s the good news. On the other side of the ledger, it didn’t seem to me that there were quite as many ethnic restaurants represented at WorldFest this year as last. Asiatique was there as usual, holding down the high end of the local-restaurant spectrum with well-prepared goat-cheese crabmeat spring rolls, salmon egg rolls and beef kebabs ($2 each or all three for $5).

A number of other local ethnic favorites staffed booths offering samples of their fare, including India Palace, Los Aztecas, Mai’s Thai, Queen of Sheba Ethiopian, Safier Mediterranean Deli, Taste of Jamaica Cafe, Thai Taste, Valu Market and Yang Kee Noodle, not to mention sweet treats from Café Glace, Coco’s Bakery, Gelato Gilberto and Kizito Cookies. Even those wary of unfamiliar dishes could easily fill the inner person with such comfort foods as bratwurst, ice cream and funnel cakes.
Continue reading Voyage of foodie discovery at Worldfest →

Commentary

BLT: The ultimate Challenge

Stephen Dennison
Stephen Dennison of Varanese and his prize-winning sushi-style BLT. Photos by Melissa Richards and Robin Garr

LEO’s Eats with LouisvilleHotBytes.com

B … L … T. Are any three letters better suited to capture the joyful tastes of midsummer’s seasonal bounty?

A bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich, properly constructed with quality materials, is arguably the greatest sandwich ever invented, an expression of summer at its best, when fresh tomatoes come bursting from gardens in juicy, glowing red orbs.

With the current emphasis on heirloom tomatoes, artisanal bacon, varietal lettuces and great breads, the BLT has never been better.

Inspired by this summer treat, four local chefs who participate in the LouisvilleHotBytes.com online forum recently faced off in a BLT challenge before a live audience of local foodies and trio of judges Continue reading BLT: The ultimate Challenge →

Commentary, Guest columnist

Industry Standard: Behind the Kitchen Door: Part II

In my last column, we visited the restaurant kitchen that lies behind the dining room access door and found it to be bright, hot and noisy. But who’s cooking your food?

Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935) simplified the elaborate and ornate kitchen brigade first popularized by Antoine Careme, one of the codifiers of French haute cuisine. The 21st century kitchen brigade has been even further distilled, personnel-wise. Who’s cooking your food? A little bit of everyone. Let’s look at the Brigade de Cuisine in the modern restaurant kitchen, shall we?
Continue reading Industry Standard: Behind the Kitchen Door: Part II →